It was an
overcast day in Tofino Canada, and we had brought our surf boards. I stepped
out of the trees and onto the beach with my surf board in hand. The waves were
about seven to eight foot swells rising off the water. I could see some patches
of blue in the sky but it was mostly cloudy. I put my wet suit on because the
water was fifty degrees. I put the Velcro strap around my ankle and charge into
the water.
I jump onto
the board, and the water splashes my and seeps into the wet suit. I was cold at
first but I got used to it. I go about forty to fifty yards off the beach, and that’s
where I road my first wave. It wasn’t big but it was a fun small one. After that
fog had rolled in, and I couldn’t see the beach when I got out. I have my head
on a swivel looking for a wave.
Right behind
me I see a large wave, it was around eight to ten feet off the water. I lay on
the board and start to paddle with my hands the wave just started to curl, and I
was on it. The nose of my board was pointing down and I was going fast. I couldn’t
see shore yet but I could hear my mom and dad yelling that they were filming. The
wave crashes, and I go even faster. The board was shaking, but I stayed on.
When I reach
the shore my parent congratulated me and so did some people who were close to
them. Throughout the rest of the day I mostly surfed, but also chilled on the
beach. The fog had eventually cleared, and most of the clouds vanished as well.
I had a great day but that nothing beat that first wave.
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